The food alchemist
Words by Emily Pattullo
Fabiana Reis has a very deep and personal relationship with food, one that she’s passionate about recreating for others to enjoy. Everything has to be taken into consideration when deciding on the perfect meal, including the weather.
Growing up on a farm in Brazil meant that Fabiana’s upbringing influenced her relationship with food, especially during harvest festival time, her favourite time of the year. But her passion for cooking came later, and by happy accident. Originally trained in journalism, Fabiana studied English in London and was awaiting her delayed highly-skilled workers visa. So in the meantime she began working with a German friend at the world’s first organic pub, The Duke of Cambridge in London, where she did country cooking, such as classic English favourite, pork belly. She loved it and so went on to work in Michelin-starred City Social in London which inspired her to go for her own Michelin star, but she didn’t enjoy the environment that came with such high expectations.
When Fabiana had a child she decided to share her mediterranean-inspired recipes online. She now has an impressive following on Instagram. “I had to develop my own philosophy by listening to how I felt in my environment. I viewed my relationship with my son and family and related that to food.”
Recently invited by a friend to cook lunch for some Matakana residents, Fabiana had much to consider, “I take into account the season, and the weather. I develop communication between flavours based on these things. On that day it was raining so I made a warm dish rather than a salad.” Moroccan-inspired and brimming with textures, flavour and colour, it’s also about creating an experience. “It’s like, ‘Hey, I’m here, I’m the roasted pepper’; I find food brings the most contact for people with themselves. My approach to cooking is to keep the person in the experience – away from their phone or computer. A chef is an alchemist, a wizard, transforming food and lives.”
Having only moved to Matakana nine months ago, Fabiana is still finding her feet and making a home for her new family. “My main job is as a mother but I’m already finding Matakana is the perfect spot for my food, as everyone cares so much about it. And each other; they are always offering help.”
Currently only making time for one client a month, by next summer she aims to have gathered a skilled team so that she is able to cater for larger functions and weddings.
Fabiana is cooking for the upcoming Creative Matakana in early May, for which she will be creating food and then explaining what the experience should be, “My way of seeing cooking is always very personal and face to face,” says Fabiana. “Food brings people together and creates memory.”